As the cool (alright a bit brisk for this Californian) autumn wind swept off Lake Michigan late last month, I was reminded of what is like to feel the fall season. Back in the Napa Valley, the temperature was over 70°F, but in Chicago, a high of 45°F would have to do for that Sunday. I was in town as a guest of the restaurateurs that own Blackbird, Avec and The Publican, all of which are located on the west side of Chicago. Each of these restaurants has their own district personality, but one attribute they clearly share is quality (I can personally vouch for this statement as I had the pleasure to imbibe at all three over that weekend). This commitment to quality was being recognized that Sunday evening, the 18th of October, by The James Beard Foundation. The organization, which is over 30 years old, has a mission to “celebrate, preserve, and nurture America’s culinary heritage and diversity in order to elevate the appreciation of our culinary excellence.”
Executive Chef/Partner Paul Kahan and his culinary & hospitality teams were being honored by The Foundation for their excellence. Blackbird Vineyards Napa Valley (which has no relation to the restaurant, but incidentally launched its brand nationally in 2006 with a private event at Blackbird restaurant) offered the wines for the Sunday supper. The event was held for 250 persons at The Publican, and wines poured included the 2008 Arriviste, 2007 Arise and 2006 Illustration. Since the restaurant is “beer focused” it was inevitable that wine would share the spotlight with a couple artisan brews regionally crafted in Illinois and Indiana. The culinary team offered perfect mid-autumn pairings, including roasted delicata squash with Sicilian pistachios, suckling pig with cavolo nero and a sweet potato panna cotta with bourbon ice cream. Needless to say guests left with a feeling in their bellies that can only be described as soulful. This mood is only upstaged by the professionalism and warmth of the employees of The Publican (and Avec and Blackbird).
In short, if you make it to Chicago—get over to the west side and enjoy. But do not forget to save time afterwards for The Violet Hour, the group’s newest venture, a “speakeasy,” where the mixologists put as much care into their cocktails as Chef Paul Kahan does his cuisine.
|
